Tick tock time stops

An old fashioned lamp-post always triggers the same response in me – tick tock time stops. There might not be a wardrobe full of fusty furs leading to Narnia but I always hope a good lamp-post marks an entry to a different time.

…see what I mean?

And so it is – in the area around Beijing’s bell and drum towers.

And so it should be – because the mighty bell and massive watch-drums were the time-keepers of ancient epochs.The east-west running narrow alleys of traditional single storey homes surrounding them are known as hutongs.

Peer into gateways and you’ll see a jumble of bikes and washing, surrounded by trailing plants and mounds of unidentifiable “stuff” .

Many of the old neighbourhoods have been – and are still being – demolished in the modernisation rush while now being recognised as historically and culturally valuable, attracting tourists and – Oh yes – people still live there. These are homes.

It’s a wonderful wander especially on a clear sunny October afternoon. Or you could opt for a trike tour but then you don’t get to peer through gateways or have a chat with an old man – when I say chat I really mean shared smiles and hand gestures – about the tangle of flowering marrow above his door.

And of course the bell and drum towers – repeatedly burnt to the ground and rebuilt/restored from the C13th onwards – are worth the incredibly steep steps leading to the platforms. The bell rang out to mark the 5 sections of the night – the drums were also used to tell the local populace the time.

Every hour there are short drumming performances – very atmospheric in the high vaulted, red-beamed hall.

And smiley, enthusiastic, sash-wearing local teenagers offer a free explanation – in remarkably good English and beam with delight if you agree to stop and let them give your their spiel.